My time in the Ozarks

It's been a sweltering several days through Oklahoma and Arkansas. I don't want to know how I'd be faring if I hadn't gotten cab AC in Wichita.

Generally, I prefer to zig when others zag, and the Ozarks are regrettably touristy this time of year. But I pulled off the beaten path enough to catch the real flavor.

Thorncrown Chapel

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I've seen a lot of churches and this one, built by late Pine Bluff, Ark. resident Jim Reed, is different. The glass and wood are perfectly reflective of the surrounding Ozarks. I stepped inside and felt a much needed dose of peace. Didn't hurt it appeared around a bend when I desperately needed it, after miles of steep hairpin turns, just before Eureka Springs.

Eureka Springs

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After going through the tourist zoo that is Eureka Springs, it was another sweet reprieve to walk through a creek with no one but my dog, baby cat fish, crawfish and lots of interesting bugs.

Come to think of it, on a hot August night could't you see me sitting out on a porch in the Ozarks with my dog? I think we'd feel right at home.

Wal-Mart — I’m OK with it

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I used to go out of my way not to shop at Wal-Mart. It wasn't necessarily the argument Sam Walton's chain of behemoth discount stores was causing the death of the local retailer, though as a newspaper employee I was acutely aware boutique advertisers and not mega corporations were funding my meager checks.

For me, it was more a personal snobbery. Though I was poor and shopped at thrift stores, I'd turn up my nose at girls parading around in ill-fitting, badly sewn attempts at the latest trends. If those were the kind of clueless people who patronized Wal-Mart, I'd skip it, thank you.

That all changed when I moved to a small city and got a dog. After buying enough expensive treats and gear from PetCo, I found myself in the pet aisle at Wal-Mart and was blown away by the all the money I could save.  My dog needed a constant supply of food, bones and leashes. This wasn't about clothes anymore.

I gradually started buying other things there, including clothes. Not everything in the fashion department is spot on, but if I can rock it, who cares.

And it's no secret most Wal-Marts let RVers park free overnight. So I have spent more money at Wal-Mart on this trip than at all the local stores (which I still purposely go to), combined.

When I got to Arkansas I was reminded that Sam Walton founded the company in Bentonville, today a city of about 20,000.

There is a museum there and I made a special trip to visit it.
Along with a nice collection of memorabilia, there's an emphasis on Walton's business philosophy. The most notable of his tenets, I think, is to embrace change.

After all, the discount department store was as much a part of the inevitable future in the 1960s when Wal-Mart was founded as a drastic restructuring of newspapers is today.

Walton got his start in boutique retailing and would regularly visit other stores to get a sense of what customers gravitated to.

I believe (as he did) that local retailers still have a future. I believe newspapers have a future, too.

I also believe forerunners embrace change.
Wal-Mart's business model will no doubt get a wakeup call one day, too.

Today there are 3,520 Wal-Marts across the U.S. and 3,593 in 15 other countries. The company's stock has split two-for-one an astounding eleven times since it was listed in 1970.

Not bad for a self-made Joe from Arkansas.

Here are recreations in the museum of Walton's first office, his last office before he died (with a closeup of the books on his shelf) and the red pickup truck he used to drive.

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Glittery architecture and a cool prayer room

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This modern rendering of a cross serves as the visitor center at Oral Roberts University in Tulsa, Ok.

The campus is full of light-reflecting, angular architecture with a glitzy southern feel – though it's debatable among Tulsans whether the city is part of the "South."

A legendary American evangelist and Oklahoma native son, Roberts started the university in 1965 with about 300 students. Last year there were about 3,000 at the four-year liberal arts college.

Roberts, 90, still travels from his home in California for important events.

In 2007, a wrongful termination lawsuit was brought by three former professors against former college president and current head of Oral Roberts Evangelistic Association, Richard Roberts, Oral's son.

The college recently was restructured to be funded separately from the evangelistic association.

IMG_2542 Biology major Jessica Pinkston, 22, is in her fifth and final year at the university and plans to go on to medical school.

"I pretty much feel it is the school God wanted me to be at. I haven't regretted a minute of it," she says. "There's a lot of campus rules (curfews, mandatory chapel attendance and a dress code)," she adds. "But in Tulsa there's not much to do after 10 (p.m.), anyway."

My favorite part of the visitor center was the prayer room, where
people can stick rolled up prayers in a wooden cross and write with
colored chalk on two blackboards.

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For those who feel lost

I tell myself one of the reasons this trip is so exciting is because
I never know which of my 300 million "neighbors" I might meet.
America is full of different types of people. It's dauntingly big geographically, too.
In uncharted territory I could find myself feeling lonely or displaced.
But the longer I'm on the road, the more I feel at home — in big
cities, small towns, unincorporated lands or on Indian reservations.

In
St. Paul, Neb., a guy sitting next to me on the tractor ride to the
drag racing strip randomly asked where I was from. Turns out he'd been
raised in Moses Lake, Wash., not far fromWenatchee where I used to live and work.

In Idaho, I took a small detour to Lapwai on the Nez Pierce Indian Reservation, where I met and interviewed a guy who was sick with cirrhosis of the liver.
Three months later in northwest Oklahoma on a different
off-the-beaten-path reservation, I engaged in small talk with a woman
who tells me he was her step son. She also said he died July 14.
I am glad to have met him and glad to know his suffering is over. If I
hadn't asked the woman her last name I'd never have known.

When I
was in Gillette, Wyo. on the coal mine tour, I was drawn to a cool
young family that had recently moved to the area. I took their picture
and gave them my card. They visited my blog and told me they know the
pastor of the church I visited in tiny, out-of-the-wayOrofino, Idaho.

And while I was in Omaha, Neb., I got an email from a woman who'd stumbled across my website while googling Kenya. She says she was amazed to discover I had interviewed her Kenyan-bound daughter a couple months earlier while I was in Missoula, Montana.

These
small-world connections, along with feedback on my postings and help
from strangers when I experience mechanical difficulties, are what keep
me going. They're like a trail of marshmallows someone left in my
personal woods to tell me I'll be OK and am doing the right thing.

They make me wonder, too, about the surreal stories and connections that exist in all our worlds, yet remain undiscovered.

A future not based on blood

IMG_2522 21-year-old Dusty Rennie attends the pow wow every year. He is one-quarter Kaw.
In a tribe of about 2,700, there are only five three-quarter blooded members left, he says. No full-blooded Kaw remain. The Kaw language also is considered "dead," since no no one uses it in their daily lives.
Rennie has been wearing a braid since his football playing days in high school.
"There's a lot of respect in the culture, a lot of discipline," he says. "As long as I can (continue to) go to the pow wow, my kids are going to go to the pow wow."

Kaw Nation pow wow

Kaw Nation tribal members call themselves "People of the south wind." Their annual pow wow near Kaw City, Ok. attracts a diverse crowd.
Photography is not allowed during many of the traditional dances. I think it has something to do with respecting the sacred.
The dances blend movement, music and energy that will never be performed the same way again.

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Oklahoma poetry

I've promised poetry and I haven't been delivering! Mainly because I don't take the time to think in metaphorical terms about the material I've gathered before posting.

But, hey, it's on my blog description, so here ya go — some terrible, whipped-together-in-a-second Oklahoma musings:

Conversation with a Cow

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Let's talk for a minute about freedom
not running to or from anything
A slower pace, no heart racing
over trivial things:
'There's traffic and I'm late for a meeting'
'He told me he'd be here; he's missing'
or
'What if next week I'm cooking in a kitchen?'


Not titled 

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The sky and the ground are my witness
that I can solve any problem I'm faced with
by looking to You
and rearranging the pieces

Back from the big city

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15-year-old Rita Aronstein (my cousin) hugs younger brother Jesse at the Kansas City airport, after returning from a month-long ballet camp in New York City. Rita says she got used to the faster pace but is glad to be home. Friends she met at camp called her Dorothy.

"I can breathe again. I feel like I've been holding my breath for four weeks," says Mom, Laura (right). 

‘The art world is definitely changing’

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My cousin, artist Nathan Schultz, 26, stands in front of two self portraits at his home in Lawrence, Kansas. He's created a menagerie of contemporary characters, including this image of "Dimebag Darrell," former lead guitarist for Pantera. Darrell was murdered in 2004 while performing onstage with metal band Damageplan.

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Most of Schutlz's work is in acrylic but last winter he made this collage using a cherished photo of Kurt Cobain. Called "Kurt has a posse," it features cameos from girlfriend Evie, friend Chris and the artist.

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"I think in America where you have the luxury of not worrying about politics, there's a lot of tension," says Schultz. There are a lot of people who just do art that's internal. That's what most of my art is. And then there's people that just do art that's political.

"The art world is definitely changing," he adds."  But right now "I think that has more to do with technology than politics."